Apple IIe Motherboard - Revision history

RMHenry: /* Kit Assembly */

2022-10-17T04:10:52Z

Kit Assembly

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:10, 16 October 2022
Line 14:		Line 14:

	==Kit Assembly==		==Kit Assembly==
	The Apple IIe Motherboard Kit is a total of ~~1515~~ pads or "''solder joints''". It takes about 3 hours to fully assemble a kit if you have a decent iron, flux, and solder. The parts included with your kit and the PCB have basic labels. Those with intermediate knowledge should have little trouble assembling the kit from the labels on the parts, the bag, and the PCB. The images below of the motherboards can also be used for reference or to determine orientation, such as the diodes.		The Apple IIe Motherboard Kit is a total of 1517 pads or "''solder joints''". It takes about 3 hours to fully assemble a kit if you have a decent iron, flux, and solder. The parts included with your kit and the PCB have basic labels. Those with intermediate knowledge should have little trouble assembling the kit from the labels on the parts, the bag, and the PCB. The images below of the motherboards can also be used for reference or to determine orientation, such as the diodes.

RMHenry at 07:36, 16 October 2022

2022-10-16T07:36:19Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:36, 16 October 2022
Line 14:		Line 14:

	==Kit Assembly==		==Kit Assembly==
	The Apple IIe Motherboard Kit is a total of ~~1517~~ pads or "''solder joints''". It takes about 3 hours to fully assemble a kit if you have a decent iron, flux, and solder. The parts included with your kit and the PCB have basic labels. Those with intermediate knowledge should have little trouble assembling the kit from the labels on the parts, the bag, and the PCB. The images below of the motherboards can also be used for reference or to determine orientation, such as the diodes.		The Apple IIe Motherboard Kit is a total of 1515 pads or "''solder joints''". It takes about 3 hours to fully assemble a kit if you have a decent iron, flux, and solder. The parts included with your kit and the PCB have basic labels. Those with intermediate knowledge should have little trouble assembling the kit from the labels on the parts, the bag, and the PCB. The images below of the motherboards can also be used for reference or to determine orientation, such as the diodes.

RMHenry at 05:02, 14 October 2022

2022-10-14T05:02:42Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:02, 13 October 2022
Line 14:		Line 14:

	==Kit Assembly==		==Kit Assembly==
	The Apple IIe Motherboard Kit is a total of ~~1515~~ pads or "''solder joints''". It takes about 3 hours to fully assemble a kit if you have a decent iron, flux, and solder. The parts included with your kit and the PCB have basic labels. Those with intermediate knowledge should have little trouble assembling the kit from the labels on the parts, the bag, and the PCB. The images below of the motherboards can also be used for reference or to determine orientation, such as the diodes.		The Apple IIe Motherboard Kit is a total of 1517 pads or "''solder joints''". It takes about 3 hours to fully assemble a kit if you have a decent iron, flux, and solder. The parts included with your kit and the PCB have basic labels. Those with intermediate knowledge should have little trouble assembling the kit from the labels on the parts, the bag, and the PCB. The images below of the motherboards can also be used for reference or to determine orientation, such as the diodes.

RMHenry: /* Resistors */

2022-10-14T05:02:28Z

Resistors

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:02, 13 October 2022
Line 40:		Line 40:
	! scope="col"\| Value		! scope="col"\| Value
	\|-		\|-
	! scope="row"\| R30,~~R38,R47~~,R73		! scope="row"\| R30,R37-38,R73
	\| 47 ohms		\| 47 ohms
	\|-		\|-
Line 58:		Line 58:
	\| 120 ohms		\| 120 ohms
	\|-		\|-
	! scope="row"\| ~~R35~~		! scope="row"\| R34-35
	\| 150 ohms		\| 150 ohms
	\|-		\|-
Line 100:		Line 100:

	Related to the resistors are the Resistor Network Arrays. These are the SIP (single inline pin) parts for locations RP1-RP3. Each has a 'dot' on the part and PCB to determine Pin1, which are all toward the keyboard end of the PCB.		Related to the resistors are the Resistor Network Arrays. These are the SIP (single inline pin) parts for locations RP1-RP3. Each has a 'dot' on the part and PCB to determine Pin1, which are all toward the keyboard end of the PCB.


	===Capacitors & Didoes===		===Capacitors & Didoes===

RMHenry: /* Kit Assembly */

2022-10-14T02:03:51Z

Kit Assembly

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:03, 13 October 2022
Line 20:		Line 20:

	* Start with the small passive parts like caps and resistors. Some of the location labels will be hard to see if you start with the sockets or other parts. Each time a part is added you can simply bend over a leg on each side to help hold the part to the PCB which allows the board to be turned over and prevents parts from falling out. It is most simple to load all the parts in groups and then solder and clip the legs as needed.		* Start with the small passive parts like caps and resistors. Some of the location labels will be hard to see if you start with the sockets or other parts. Each time a part is added you can simply bend over a leg on each side to help hold the part to the PCB which allows the board to be turned over and prevents parts from falling out. It is most simple to load all the parts in groups and then solder and clip the legs as needed.
			* '''A good loupe (magnifying glass) is recommended for helping identify and confirm parts, like the markings on some small caps. It also helps with solder joint inspection. An illuminated 40 x 25mm and a 35 x 50mm loupe are well worth the investment and can be had for about $10 each on eBay.'''


	===Resistors===		===Resistors===

RMHenry: /* IC Sockets */

2022-10-14T02:03:28Z

IC Sockets

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:03, 13 October 2022
Line 157:		Line 157:
	* Once the passive parts are installed next should be the IC sockets. When a socket is loaded on the board bending the corner pins of the sockets helps hole it to the PCB which allows group loading and soldering. The sockets are all the same thickness. So if you solder on a flat surface then this will also help hold all the sockets flat to the PCB and give a more uniform appearance when completed. '''Be sure ALL pin 1 'notches' '''are facing towards the keyboard end. The CPU socket 'notch' should be towards the Game IO / Video side, and the ROM SPCL should be facing towards the crystal side.		* Once the passive parts are installed next should be the IC sockets. When a socket is loaded on the board bending the corner pins of the sockets helps hole it to the PCB which allows group loading and soldering. The sockets are all the same thickness. So if you solder on a flat surface then this will also help hold all the sockets flat to the PCB and give a more uniform appearance when completed. '''Be sure ALL pin 1 'notches' '''are facing towards the keyboard end. The CPU socket 'notch' should be towards the Game IO / Video side, and the ROM SPCL should be facing towards the crystal side.
	* End with the larger parts, like jacks, and finally the slots. Don't bend over these parts pins/legs as they will be too hard. You will need to hold them in place as you solder a few pins before you can group solder.		* End with the larger parts, like jacks, and finally the slots. Don't bend over these parts pins/legs as they will be too hard. You will need to hold them in place as you solder a few pins before you can group solder.


	'''A good loupe (magnifying glass) is recommended for helping identify and confirm parts, like the markings on some small caps. It also helps with solder joint inspection. An illuminated 40 x 25mm and a 35 x 50mm loupe are well worth the investment and can be had for about $10 each on eBay.'''

RMHenry: /* Capacitors & Didoes */

2022-10-14T02:02:45Z

Capacitors & Didoes

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:02, 13 October 2022
Line 152:		Line 152:
	* Install the Aluminum caps and be sure to install correctly as they are polarized.		* Install the Aluminum caps and be sure to install correctly as they are polarized.
	* All caps will have value markings on them. "106" is 10uF, and "104" is .1uF. 10uF is also typically physically larger than .1uF. "470" is 47pF, "101" is 100pF, and "221" is 220pF for example. This should also help identify the ceramic caps in the kit. They along with the Electrolytic caps can also clearly be seen in the assembled pic above.		* All caps will have value markings on them. "106" is 10uF, and "104" is .1uF. 10uF is also typically physically larger than .1uF. "470" is 47pF, "101" is 100pF, and "221" is 220pF for example. This should also help identify the ceramic caps in the kit. They along with the Electrolytic caps can also clearly be seen in the assembled pic above.
	* Be sure to installed the LEDs correctly. One side of the base of the LED will be "flat" compared to the other side. Be sure to align the flat side as noted on the motherboard location marking.		* Be sure to installed the LEDs correctly. One side of the base of the LED will be "flat" compared to the other side. Be sure to align the flat side as noted on the motherboard location marking. This same rule will apply to the transistors as well.

	===IC Sockets===		===IC Sockets===

RMHenry: /* Capacitors & Didoes */

2022-10-14T02:01:04Z

Capacitors & Didoes

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:01, 13 October 2022
Line 152:		Line 152:
	* Install the Aluminum caps and be sure to install correctly as they are polarized.		* Install the Aluminum caps and be sure to install correctly as they are polarized.
	* All caps will have value markings on them. "106" is 10uF, and "104" is .1uF. 10uF is also typically physically larger than .1uF. "470" is 47pF, "101" is 100pF, and "221" is 220pF for example. This should also help identify the ceramic caps in the kit. They along with the Electrolytic caps can also clearly be seen in the assembled pic above.		* All caps will have value markings on them. "106" is 10uF, and "104" is .1uF. 10uF is also typically physically larger than .1uF. "470" is 47pF, "101" is 100pF, and "221" is 220pF for example. This should also help identify the ceramic caps in the kit. They along with the Electrolytic caps can also clearly be seen in the assembled pic above.
	* Be sure to installed the LEDs correctly. One side of the base of the LED will be "flat" compared to the other side. Be sure to align the flat side as noted on the motherboard.		* Be sure to installed the LEDs correctly. One side of the base of the LED will be "flat" compared to the other side. Be sure to align the flat side as noted on the motherboard location marking.



	===IC Sockets===		===IC Sockets===

RMHenry: /* Capacitors & Didoes */

2022-10-14T01:59:22Z

Capacitors & Didoes

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:59, 13 October 2022
Line 140:		Line 140:
	! scope="row"\| C9,C8,C12,C15,C17,C53-54,C72,C82		! scope="row"\| C9,C8,C12,C15,C17,C53-54,C72,C82
	\| 10uF, Electrolytic Cap		\| 10uF, Electrolytic Cap
			\|-
			! scope="row"\| CR4
			\| Diode
			\|-
			! scope="row"\| CR1, CR2
			\| LED, Red
	\|-		\|-
	\|}		\|}
	</center>		</center>

			* Install the Aluminum caps and be sure to install correctly as they are polarized.
	* Install the ~~10uF~~ Aluminum caps ~~at locations C17~~ and ~~C27. Be~~ sure to install correctly as they are polarized. All caps will have value markings on them. "106" is 10uF, and "104" is .1uF. 10uF is also typically physically larger than .1uF. This should help identify the ceramic caps in the kit. They along with the Electrolytic caps can also clearly be seen in the assembled pic above.		* All caps will have value markings on them. "106" is 10uF, and "104" is .1uF. 10uF is also typically physically larger than .1uF. "470" is 47pF, "101" is 100pF, and "221" is 220pF for example. This should also help identify the ceramic caps in the kit. They along with the Electrolytic caps can also clearly be seen in the assembled pic above.
	* ~~Install a 47pF cap at location "C3 (COLOR TRIM)". This can be from any of the two pads on the right~~ to the ~~one pad on the left. A diode also has a marking on it, and needs to be installed~~ correctly ~~as it only allows current to flow in one direction~~. ~~Install it backwards and you won't usually damage it, however~~ the ~~circuit~~ will ~~no longer operate as intended. They can also clearly~~ be ~~seen in~~ the ~~assembled pic above.~~		* Be sure to installed the LEDs correctly. One side of the base of the LED will be "flat" compared to the other side. Be sure to align the flat side as noted on the motherboard.
	* Install the diode at location CR1. Be sure to ~~install with~~ the ~~line~~ side ~~down (towards~~ the ~~"A" row)~~.






			===IC Sockets===
	* Once the passive parts are installed next should be the IC sockets. When a socket is loaded on the board bending the corner pins of the sockets helps hole it to the PCB which allows group loading and soldering. The sockets are all the same thickness. So if you solder on a flat surface then this will also help hold all the sockets flat to the PCB and give a more uniform appearance when completed. '''Be sure ALL pin 1 'notches' '''are facing towards the keyboard end. The CPU socket 'notch' should be towards the Game IO / Video side, and the ROM SPCL should be facing towards the crystal side.		* Once the passive parts are installed next should be the IC sockets. When a socket is loaded on the board bending the corner pins of the sockets helps hole it to the PCB which allows group loading and soldering. The sockets are all the same thickness. So if you solder on a flat surface then this will also help hold all the sockets flat to the PCB and give a more uniform appearance when completed. '''Be sure ALL pin 1 'notches' '''are facing towards the keyboard end. The CPU socket 'notch' should be towards the Game IO / Video side, and the ROM SPCL should be facing towards the crystal side.
	* End with the larger parts, like jacks, and finally the slots. Don't bend over these parts pins/legs as they will be too hard. You will need to hold them in place as you solder a few pins before you can group solder.		* End with the larger parts, like jacks, and finally the slots. Don't bend over these parts pins/legs as they will be too hard. You will need to hold them in place as you solder a few pins before you can group solder.

RMHenry: /* Capacitors & Didoes */

2022-10-14T01:42:57Z

Capacitors & Didoes

@@ Line 109: / Line 109: @@
 If your kit includes Aluminum or Tantalum capacitors, or "caps" for short, then be sure to install them in the correct orientation.  The PCB will be clearly marked with "+" signs for all cap locations when the orientation of the part matters, or a polarized part is normally used.  Sometimes a non-polarized part is used in place of a polarized one and then its orientation does not matter, however install a polarized cap backwards and you will damage it.  An Aluminum Electrolytic will have a strip pointing to the NEGATIVE end lead.  A Tantalum Electrolytic will generally have a marking or stripe to denote (not always pointing to) the POSITIVE lead.
 * Install the 10uF Aluminum caps at locations C17 and C27. Be sure to install correctly as they are polarized. All caps will have value markings on them.  "106" is 10uF, and "104" is .1uF.  10uF is also typically physically larger than .1uF.  This should help identify the ceramic caps in the kit.  They along with the Electrolytic caps can also clearly be seen in the assembled pic above.
 * Install a 47pF cap at location "C3 (COLOR TRIM)". This can be from any of the two pads on the right to the one pad on the left. A diode also has a marking on it, and needs to be installed correctly as it only allows current to flow in one direction.  Install it backwards and you won't usually damage it, however the circuit will no longer operate as intended.  They can also clearly be seen in the assembled pic above.